The joy of eating plump wantan and fine, springy mee

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

HELLO, folks! Welcome to this week’s edition of the Food Trail.

First of all, I would like to give a shout to Tiger Lee Hong Shan from Bandar Puteri Puchong for sharing some makan stories from his neighbourhood.

Thanks a bunch, because some of the outlets there are really worth a mention.

Tasty and springy: The stall’s wantan mee is among the best in SS2, Petaling Jaya.

Next, Corrine Chan from Bandar Rahman Putra, Sungai Buloh, wants to know if a wantan noodle stall in Okay coffee shop in SS2, Petaling Jaya, is noteworthy.

In her correspondence, she said: “Dear Samo, I would like to share some information on a wantan mee stall in Okay coffee shop.

“You have written about the taufoo pok noodles here which is very famous. But I guess you might have missed out on the wantan mee seller, who is also very famous.”

Chan, a bank employee in SS2, added that she usually had her lunch in the area and had been a loyal customer of the stall in Jalan SS2/10.

Well, Corrine, as a matter of fact, I had a taste of the wantan noodles with my co-worker James Lam some­time back.

And, as a follow-up, I took my wife Michelle to the stall and got her stamp of approval.

The stall, which is located in the far corner of the coffee shop, is in fact a popular one.

I learnt from other friends who frequent this place that the stall is a family business and it has been around for as long as they could remember.

Packed: The lunch crowd at Okay coffee shop in Jalan SS2/10, Petaling Jaya.

Now, what makes the makan experience here memorable is the fact that the stall operators make their own noodles, which has a fine and springy texture. And, for RM4.50 a pop, you cannot go wrong.

We had the kwon lou (dry gravy) version of the wantan mee with steamed chicken and extra wantan, so, as usual, my bill came up to RM12.50 for all the extras thrown in. I have no complaint, what with the generous portion and excellent fare.

Highly recommended is an additional bowl of the plump wantan (you need to eat at least a dozen to leave this coffee shop a satisfied person, so good they are!).

The wantan noodle stall, managed by three siblings, opens daily for breakfast and lunch.

If you decide to head there, be informed that parking bays are rather limited. Be kind to the rest of the hungry folk by car-pooling, or hire a taxi to get you there and back to your workplace.

Halal flavours of Taiwan

By TAN SIN CHOW

sctan@thestar.com.my

TAIWAN despite being a Chinese-populated island is actually a Muslim-friendly destination.

There are six mosques in its three major cities with a multitude of Muslim eateries with halal certification.

Together with a group of travel writers, I was whisked off to the island for seven days where we had a culinary adventure in almost all the restaurants and food outlets that sold the best halal food in Taiwan.

We were lucky to be able to check out a halal eatery which was once picked as Taipei’s top 10 beef noodle soup shops.

Skilled: Yusuf scooping up noodles from the boiling water at his Qingzhen Beef Noodle Restaurant in Taipei.

At 80, Yusuf Ai, or popularly known as Ai-Jia among the locals, is still running the Qingzhen Beef Noodle Restaurant with the help of his family members.

“I just feel I have this obligation to continue serving the Muslim community here. Not many shops sell halal food,” he said.

Just as each restaurant has its own secret recipe, the trick to a good beef noodle broth lies in the combination of ingredients — al dente noodles and tender beef.

For all to see: Ma showing the word ‘halal’ etched on the glass panel at his Yunus Halal Thai Restaurant in Taipei.

There are also many Thai food restaurants in Taiwan, but the Yunus Halal Thai Restaurant in Taipei is one of the few Thai outlets that has halal certification.

It is owned by ethnic Chinese Yunus Ma, 48, who hired several Thai chefs to cook Thai and Yunnan-style cuisines with imported spices.

According to Yunus, who hails from Chiangmai, Thailand, the spicy and sour flavours have been toned down to suit the tastebud of local Muslims.

“As for Malaysian diners, many give their thumbs-up for the steamed lemon fish,” he said. There is also an in-house surau for Muslims to offer prayers.

Must-try: Masala Papadam is a spiced lentil wafer served with chopped onions and tomatoes served at the Ali Baba Indian Kitchen.

Have you tried eating flowers? If not or if you had eaten and craved for more, then head for Tai-Yi Leisure Farm Water Flower Garden Restaurant that serves delicious countryside floral meals.

For the best Indian-Pakistani halal food, the Ali Baba Indian Kitchen and Aaleja are definitely the best places.

Muhammad Ali, the operator of Ali Baba, can easily whip up more than 90 authentic mutton and chicken dishes, as well as soft and flaky breads from his traditional oven.

Unique: The floral meal served at the Tai-Yi Leisure Farm Water Flower Garden Restaurant.

For more Indian-Pakistani fare, opt for Aaleja Restaurant which is tucked away in an alley near Yanji Street.

Taiwan is home to more than 50,000 Muslims, said Tourism Bureau director-general Janice She-Jen Lai in her foreword in a booklet released by the bureau.

Among the six mosques in Taiwan, the Taipei Grand Mosque is a major tourist attraction and heritage site established in the 1950s. It has been an important stop for visiting Muslim leaders to Taiwan.

The writer was on a recent Taiwan Muslim media familiarisation trip, courtesy of Cathay Pacific, Taiwan Tourism Bureau and Malaysia Harmony Tour and Travel Sdn Bhd.

The travel agency specialises in arranging Muslim tours to Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea and China. For details, call Norah Jelani at 03-2142 9266 or email to muslim@mysharmony.com or

Vegetarian fare to please the palate

By ELAN PERUMAL
elan@thestar.com.my

AS a result of overwhelming response from non-Indians, especially the Chinese, Saravan Bhavan has introduced several special Chinese dishes on its menu.

Its fried noodles with choice of American and Chinese chopsuey sauce is one of the special items at the outlet in Jalan Tengku Kelana in Klang.

“The crispy noodles is served with either American or Chinese chopsuey which is a kind of sauce prepared with cauliflowers, baby corn, broccoli, carrot and a mixture of other vegetables.

“The American chopsuey will suit those who prefer spicy fare,’’ said its senior manager, S. Pandiyan.

Wide variety: Pandiyan displaying the variety of thosai served at the Saravana Bhavan outlet in Klang

Besides the hakka fried rice which the restaurant had introduced from the beginning, Pandiyan said they recently introduced the Manchurian cauliflower and Manchurian vegetarian chicken dishes.

Pandiyan said the outlet was also popular for its various types of thosai.

He said it offered 10 types of thosai and some with fillings.

“We have thosai with mushroom, spinach, paneer (milk curd), potatoes and vegetable. We also have the normal tosai and family thosai,’’ he said

He said the mini tiffin set served with a variety of items including chapati, rawakesari, rawa kichadi, five mini idlis with sambar and a mini masala thosai was one of the unique breakfast packages it offered.

“The set lunch served on banana leaf comes with 13 items including ponni rice. It goes well with the additional or optional chappati, curd and ice cream.

“Quick lunch sets which offer two vegetables and six more items including a desert will be perfect for those who are in a hurry,’’ he said, adding that briyani and naan are also available for lunch.

Sarawakian fish takes pride of place at outlet

By CHOONG MEK ZHIN

mekzhin@thestar.com.my

Pandan Lake Seafood Village,
Pandan Lake Club,
28, Jalan Perdana 3/8,
Pandan Perdana,
Cheras 55300, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-92845666
Business hours: Mon - Fri lunch
from 11.00am to 2.30pm,
weekend and public holidays
lunch from 9.00am to 2.30pm and
daily dinner from 6.00pm to 10.00pm.
Non halal

MANY would raise more than an eyebrow when told that the usual selling price for an Empurau fish is about RM700 per kilogramme but for fish lovers, the price may well be worth it as explained by Pandan Lake Seafood Village owner James Wong.

“The Empurau can only be caught in the Rejang river in Sarawak and no where else in Malaysia. It isn’t easy to catch and it eats fruits that fall into the river,” Wong said.

Special treat: Only the bigger fish have scales that can be fried.

He added that the fish was usually caught using a fishing rod and if the catch was too small, most people usually keep them in aquariums as the fish is considered beautiful with three colours on each scale.

“I’ve been told many times by customers that the Empurau’s flesh is very smooth and tastes very fresh,” Wong said.

He added that other restaurants that served the fish might have imported it from Indonesia and the taste was not as good as the one from Malaysia.

“The rivers in Indonesia where this fish is caught are clear and one can easily see the fish from the surface, Wong said.

“River fish are actually tastier than sea fish.

“This is because the river water is constantly moving, providing a healthier environment and the fish eat mostly fruits or prey on other smaller fishes,” he said.

Sea fish, on the other hand, according to Wong, were exposed to all kinds of pollution and fish reared in ponds are not as tasty as river fish.

His restaurant specialises in river fish and is now offering the Empurau at RM550 per kilo and the Temoleh, the sixth most expensive river fish on its menu, at RM130 per kilo.

“The promotion will only last as long as we have stock of these fish,” Wong said, adding that most other fish commonly served in Chinese restaurants were also available.

Tasty: The Empurau fish is only steamed with some soy sauce and garnished with some greens.

“Both are seasonal fishes and we usually only serve those that are between 1.5kg and 2kg because they are big enough that the bones will not be too cumbersome for diners, particularly the Empurau, which is known for having many small bones.

“When we prepare big fishes, we are also able to provide the customer with a small special side dish of fried fish scales from the fish they are consuming.

“Smaller fish scales are too small for us to prepare,” Wong said, adding that generally fish took four to five years to grow to weigh 2kg.

Other than the fish dishes, the restaurant also provides items, all of which focus on “wild” and fresh ingredients.

Taking it slow: The wild chicken is slow-cooked for four hours to ensure its tenderness.

For instance, they also serve a wild chicken clear broth with tongkat ali that, according to restaurant head chef Lu Guang Si, 32, takes four hours to prepare.

“The ingredients, particularly the chicken, are very tough and by slow-cooking it for four hours, the meat will be tender enough to be eaten,” Lu said, adding that the restaurant also served wild boar knuckles and fish maw.

Another interesting dish served is the mixed vegetable dish that features bite-sized pieces of fish paste wedged between two lotus roots.

Another restaurant favourite is the rice with diced waxed duck, something different compared with the usual slices of duck arranged neatly atop the rice.

Hot Off The Streets Into Lot 10

Barbecued pork ´wan ton´ noodles Roast duck

Popular Malaysian gastronomic fare that has withstood the test of time and become part of Malaysia's rice culinary heritage has been brought together under one roof at Lot 10.

At the newly opened Lot 10 Hutong Gourmet Heritage Village, well-known street food that has been tantalising the taste buds of foodies for decades are offered in a chic, contemporary setting.

Chinese food that has been dished out for decades from make-shift hawker stalls, corner pushcarts and street-side stands in the alleys and back lanes of the Klang Valley, Penang and even Singapore have found a place in the food court.

Twenty-six stalls, specially selected from over 200 food outlets, offer a unique gastronomic experience in the heart of Bukit Bintang.

"Each stall was handpicked by my son (Tan Sri Dr Francis Yeoh) to ensure that only the 'best of the best' street food that has survived at least 50 years are featured in Lot 10 Hutong," said Puan Sri Tan Kai Yong, the matriarch of YTL Corporation Bhd which set up the food court.

Take, for example, the Soong Kee beef noodles, a Hakka speciality of the Soong Kee restaurant in Jalan Silang, which has been in existence since World War 2 in 1945. One wonders how many bowls of springy, smooth hand-made beef balls in a steaming hot peppery soup, served with noodles topped with minced beef or pork sauce, had been slurped down over the decades.

After 90 years, the Kim Lean Kee Hokkien mee stall, which was set up by Ong Kim Lian, one of the first to arrive in Malaya from the Fukien province of China, is now run by Lee Ching Jing, who says the taste of the famous original mee has been retained.

Ipoh chicken rice, which was first sold from a stall in a coffee shop in old town Ipoh in 1967 by Yan Khoon Yin, is also available here. Apart from its signature chicken rice, the stall tempts with its honey-glazed barbecued pork, charcoal-grilled drumsticks and braised pork.

Mr Siew Bao, which can trace its origin three decades back to Seremban, offers treats like the siew bao with delicious flaky layers, egg tarts and lo poh beng or winter melon biscuits.

Hainanese coffee brewed from hand-roasted beans, half-boiled eggs and toast, which had been the breakfast combo of many generations of customers at a coffee shop at the Kluang railway station, are now served here. Established in 1938, Kluang Station is today run by the third generation of the founding family.

Peranakan fare fusing Malay, Chinese and colonial flavours is represented at Mama Nyonya, which offers 80 delicious varieties of desserts, snacks and kuih.

Lorong Tiong Nam Campbell mini popiah or Teochew-style spring rolls, Hon Kee porridge, and Luk Yu dim sum and you tiao are among the other instantly recognisable names here.

"With Lot 10 Hutong, we are also preserving a culinary legacy for our future generation, which may be forgotten, if neglected," Tan said.

Pictures by Mohd Fadli Hamzah

Dim Sum, Taiwanese Style

The three platter dish

ANUSHA K savours fine Taiwanese selections at a plush restaurant.

ONE of the latest foreign cuisine eatery is Zhen Shan Mei -- Klang Valley's first fine-dining Taiwanese restaurant that serves appetisers, dim sum and a la carte dishes.

The Oriental touch is seen in the d�cor and the plush chairs with their royal gold furnishings.

The circular dining area is enhanced by huge cylinder-like lights that impart a soft glow. The restaurant also has three private dining rooms with karaoke entertainment.

The food is equally appetising. I begin my Taiwanese culinary journey with a three-combination platter which consists of foie gras roulades, mullet fish roe and scallops with salmon roe.

Portions are big, so this can be shared between two. Served in dainty angular plates, it also scores visually.

I particularly like the scallops with salmon roe. The scallops are fresh, a tinge of pink on the succulent skin. A little sweet but fleshy, it complements the slightly salty salmon roe.

After the light appetiser, it's time to try some of the signature dim sum (dumpling) available.

The steamed pork and prawn dumpling topped with caviar is delicious. I can't help but have another helping.

The steamed pork is well marinated and steamed to perfection. The sweet prawns go well with the white glutinous wrap and the caviar gives it the finishing touch.

The a la carte menu is extensive and leaves you spoilt for choice. There are two options: have the dishes with plain rice or braised pork rice. The first dish is wok-fried scrambled eggs with shark's fin. Anything fried goes down well with me plus this fried dish is not oily.

Sauteed with onions, sharks fin and vegetables, it's a nice side dish that complements the country style steamed fish rolls with shrimp paste.

Served with spring onions and oyster sauce, the fish pairs well with the bowl of steamed rice.

But if you'd rather have prawns as the mains, I'd suggest the sauteed prawns with homemade hot and spicy sauce.

It's a little spicy due to the black pepper but it's nevertheless addictive, and with the snow peas thrown in, it is a complete meal by itself.

The desserts can be ordered from the dim sum menu or the dessert menu. I tried the warm creamy almond drink with Taiwanese crispy dough. It kept me all warm and fuzzy while it poured cats and dogs outside.

The slightly strong almond taste due to the essence didn't spoil the rich creaminess on my taste buds derived from the almond nuts.

Two varieties from the dim sum range are the honey baked egg tart and the sweet potato balls filled with lotus paste coated with sesame.

The sweet custard-like egg is soft and melts in your mouth, while the crusty pastry flakes gives the right amount of crunchiness.

Though sweet potato is not a personal favourite, I was equally impressed with this dish. Fried until golden brown, the lotus paste and the fried potato balls were like a match made in heaven.

Soft and crunchy at the same time, the sesame seeds made this dessert visually appetising too.To wash down these sinful treats, I suggest many sips of the ever refreshing winter melon with lemon!

Zhen Shan Mei is located on the ground floor, Solaris Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur.

• > Start of your meal fine dining style with the three platter dish: Foie gras roulades, mullet fish roe and scallops with salmon roe.
• > Foie gras roulades has a rather smooth, crunchy finish with a salty aftertaste on your palate.
• > The scallops with salmon roe is a perfect match of sweet and sour.
• > Sweet succulent pink scallops complement the slightly salty salmon roe just well.
• > This three platter dish is equally appetising and scores visually. It is served in dainty little coloured plates and I'd suggest you share this lovely appetiser with a loved one and then, feast on the rest!
• > The sweet ending to this platter is the mullet fish roe served with some salad. Light, a little crunchy and soft sums up this dainty dumpling.

Restaurant brings together an auspicious meal deal

By ESTHER CHANDRAN

estherc@thestar.com.my

TOH YUEN CHINESE RESTAURANT,
HILTON PETALING JAYA,
No 2, Jalan Barat, Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03-7955 9122 ext 4073/4
Business hours: Lunch (noon to 2.30pm),
dinner (7.00pm to 10.30pm).

IT IS not often that bean sprouts get to star in an expensive treat like Shark’s Fin Soup but once in a while, the humble vegetable gets to shine in this tasty dish.

Fresh favourite: Celebrate at Toh Yuen with the sashimi yee sang.

At Hilton Petaling Jaya’s Toh Yuen Chinese Restaurant, the thick and aromatic Braised Superior Shark’s Fin Soup in Brown Sauce and Dried Scallop was somewhat different when a small serving of fresh bean sprouts was added to the dish.

This is how you do it; throw the bean sprouts into the soup, let them take in some heat and stir it up with the supple shark’s fin and soft scallop.

The hardy sprouts still maintain their form and add crunch each time you savour the soup.

Other than the soup, diners can delight in the Baked ‘Fatt Choy’ Chicken, Steamed Fresh Water King Prawn with Egg White, Steamed Pomfret Hong Kong Style, Braised White Jade Shellfish with Black Mushroom and Sea Cucumber and Fried Glutinous Rice with Minced Mushroom and Chicken. These are among the Chinese New Year delicacies at the restaurant which is celebrating the Lunar New Year till March 7.

Fresh favourite: Celebrate at Toh Yuen with the sashimi yee sang.

To get the freshness out of seafood dishes, we were encouraged to try the steamed king prawn and steamed pomfret dishes.

The single serving of prawn per person was not only sumptuous but also very filling as it was a large prawn, sitting in a thick yellow egg soup, garnished with spring onions and cilantro.

We also enjoyed the steamed white pomfret for extra luck and the simplicity of the dish made it all the more delicious.

One dish that packs in all elements of luck would be the Baked ‘Fatt Choy’ Chicken as this roasted chicken dish which is then steamed, is rich with good luck ingredients like fatt choy and oysters. Executive sous chef Frederick Khoo said the chicken was marinated with a variety of ingredients before it was baked.

“We then steam the chicken and add fatt choy, oysters and foo chok to the dish to give the dish its rich appeal,” he said.

Simple touch: The simplicity of the pomfret dish allows the flavours of the fish to emerge.

Those who would like to have more yee sang, can try Toh Yuen’s five varieties — Yee Sang with Sliced Abalone and Seasonal Fruits, Yee Sang with Tuna, Yee Sang with Salmon, Vegetarian Yee Sang and Yee Sang with Jelly Fish.

The dish is available in three sizes — large, medium and small — and is priced from RM40++ to RM288++.

There is a special yee sang dish that is not on the menu and this is the Grand Toh Yuen Yee Sang. The dish comes with fresh seafood sashimi, ordered from the Japanese outlet Genji to give your yee sang dish a richer more robust taste.

For family dinners and get togethers, there are four prosperous lunar sets priced at RM988++, RM1188++, RM1388++ and RM2088++ per table of eight.

Stall stands the test of time

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

Porridge still as good as it was in the good old days

CHUK, or porridge, has been a long-standing breakfast dish among the Chinese.

Prepared from rice, there are least three or four variations of chuk (among them Teochew porridge and the chap fan porridge) and one of my favourites is the chee chap chuk (pork parts porridge).

Decades ago, there were at least a dozen well-known makan places in Kuala Lumpur’s city centre that specialised in porridge.

But, as time went by, many of these places shut down and have become fond memories.

However, if you search hard enough, there are a few stalls left that serve a good bowl of chee chap chook.

Popular: The stall has been around for years and has stood the test of time.

I would like to make special mention of the Hon Kee porridge stall at Jalan Hang Lekiu.

This is one makan place that still serves chee chap chuk and you can get it as early as 5am.

Back in the days when I was a secondary student at a school on Jalan Hang Tuah, I used to frequent the stall with my buddies KF Chia and Bob Lew.

Even in the mid-1980s, a bowl of porridge would cost about RM3 for a small helping and RM4 for a larger bowl.

And, throughout my working life, I have been eating at this stall and I must say that after more than two decades, the standard and quality of the food served here is still consistent.

Recently, my wife Michelle and I took a trip to town to try out the porridge.

We were rather late when we had lunch at midday and the lady owner of this stall came out and greeted us with a smile as she took our orders.

Since Michelle had never eaten there before, I recommendeded their chee chap chuk with additional char cheong (deep fried pig’s intestines).

Service was prompt as we were seated at a table in front of a bank, which ironically, is the ‘safest’ place to makan.

Satisfying: The food at Hon Kee has remained consistent over the years.

Anyway, getting back to the porridge, I was surprised to see the bowl filled to the brim with char cheong and as I tucked into my late lunch, I was very pleased to find that the quality of the food had remained the same.

Apart from the normal chee yuk chuk (pork porridge) and yee chuck (fish slice porridge), Hon Kee has also improvised by adding several other porridge dishes such as the century egg and chicken floss porridge.

However, when it comes to pricing, I guess inflation must have taken a huge toll.

For my karr lieu (extra side dishes) order, I paid RM7.50 a bowl but I guess the good taste made up for the price.

What was missing from my order was a piece of raw egg, because by adding that, it’ll give more ‘ooomph!’ to the porridge dish.

Hon Kee opens daily from 5am to 3pm and, if you want to g ive it a try, be sure to get there early as seats and tables are limited.

For the gadget geek, the lat-long coordinates for this stall are: N 03 08 663, E 101 41 883.

Organic delights to tempt all palates

By CHRISTINA LOW

christinalow@thestar.com.my

MEDIFOODS
59, Jalan SS18/6,
47500 Subang Jaya, Selangor
Tel: 03-5632 5714/ 03-5636 5338
Business Hours: (Mon-Sat) 7.30am - 7.30pm
Closed on Sundays.

IF I was given a choice to choose a lunch spot, it would definitely not be an organic restaurant.

Often labelled as being tasteless and less flavourful with little or no meat at all has deterred me from patronising any after several experiences.

Free starters: A bowl of soup, salad and fruits are offered at no charge at the eatery.

When I was asked to review Medifoods recently, like many, I was sceptical and even thought of swapping my lunch deal with another colleague as I feared my lunch hour would be put to waste again.

However, when I arrived at Medifoods in Subang Jaya, I was surprised that its managing director, Looi Tyck Lam, was quick to assure me that I was not alone in thinking like that.

“Many people think that organic food is meant for vegetarians or for sick people who cannot take rich ingredients,

“Young children hate to enter organic shops because they fear the taste and the choice of food. This leaves only the older ones enjoying it,” said Looi who started the restaurant after his customers approached him on ways to prepare organic food.

For prosperity: Medifoods master chef Mervin Say (left) and Looi tossing the Yee Sang dish.

He said he did not blame them for such comments and had tried to work out a menu with dishes that would suit the youngest and fussiest in the family.

To start the meal, Looi offers a bowl of vegetable soup each, a salad and a plate of fruits which he said was served at his outlets at no charge.

Guests can then take their time to order.

We had the Japanese Charcoal Soba served with a large bowl of Miso Soup which was filled with Tofu, Mushrooms and Wood Fungus while the Black Pepper Udon had a strong black peppercorn smell and aftertaste. It is ideal for those who love a hint of spiciness in their noodles.

Also on our table was the Aglio Olio Spaghetti, Cantonese Rice-Pancake Soup and my favourite Nasi Lemak which came with steamed naturally coloured green rice.

Healthy fare: Japanese Charcoal Soba served with Miso Soup.

The outlet which opens at 7am also serves breakfast sets of Spanish Omelette, American Breakfast, Nasi Lemak, Herbal Congee, Vegetable Congee, Noodles with Mushrooms and Seaweed Congee priced at RM6 each.

For Chinese New Year, Medifoods is also bringing back its Organic Yee Sang which comprises of carrot, yam, red cabbage, lotus root, unripe papaya, sweet potato, radish, pomelo, roasted seaweed, seaweed birdnest, Tibetan ice lime, red chillies, pickled ginger, kaffir lime leaves, roasted peanuts and sesame topped with a special sauce made out of Mirin sauce, Cider Plum sauce, vinegar, ginger juice, carrot juice and lemon juice.

The Organic Yee Sang is priced at RM23, RM33 and RM43 according to the size and is available till Feb 28.

22 CNY items that signify prosperity, happiness and abundance

By YIP YOKE TENG
teng@thestar.com.my
Photos by HAFZI MOHAMED

CELESTIAL COURT,
Sheraton Imperial Hotel Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2717 9900 ext 6988
Business hours: Monday to Saturday,
noon-2.30pm; 6.30pm-10.30pm;
Sunday and Public Holidays, 10am-2.30pm;
6.30pm-10.30pm.
Halal

CHINESE New Year is the time of the year when the names of the dishes are of particular interest to diners, who seek to start the new year with a bang.

Dried oyster, black moss, fish and prawn must be included in the reunion dinner as their names have auspicious meanings.

However, it is a challenge for chefs to come up with flavours that continue to appeal to diners even though the same ingredients are used every year.

Master chef Ho Boon at Celestial Court, Sheraton Imperial Hotel Kuala Lumpur, is all set to delight diners with 22 Chinese New Year dishes, each of which carries a name to signify prosperity, happiness or abundance.

Symbolising good things and prosperity: Braised dried oyster with seamoss and vegetables.

The dishes are also given a different touch to whet guests’ appetite even though they would probably have eaten the same dishes year after year.

They are presented in three-set menus, priced at RM988++, RM1,188++ and RM1,288++, per table of 10, which are avalable for both lunch and dinner.

In addition to the set menus, guests can also opt to savour their choice of prosperity dishes from the a la carte menu.

Among the tantalising array of auspicious dishes, chef Ho is especially proud of the wok-baked fresh water king prawn with cheese in superior stock.

Gold and silver in the house: Pan-fried seafood with capsicum and macadamia nuts

“The prawns, which are flown in from Vietnam, are larger in size and have a firm texture that gives a good bite. They are baked in the wok so that they retain the texture while the flavours and aroma are effectively absorbed into the meat,” Ho said.

The prawn’s size will cheer up any seafood lover and the sauce oozing out from the crustaceans is delectable. The light gravy is enhanced with a hint of cheese to make the Chinese meal interesting.

Braised dried oyster with seamoss and vegetables is another Chinese New Year must-have. It is obvious that the dried oysters are carefully chosen because every piece is sizable, and the flavours are thoroughly infused.

Pan-fried seafood with capsicum and macadamia nuts balances the usually meaty reunion dinner with fresh vegetables. The ingredients are diced and deftly fried to offer a variety of natural flavours, enhanced by their contrasting textures.

“The seafood and vegetable are served in a lettuce leaf, so that it resembles a house filled with gold and silver,” Ho added with a smile.

Of course yee sang is a vital element in all Chinese New Year feasts, and the restaurant offers abalone, salmon and jelly fish to go with the popular Chinese salad, featuring homemade plum sauce. Yee sang is available from RM68 for a half portion.

The Chinese New Year celebratory menus are available from Feb 14 to 28; do catch a special lion dance performance on Feb 21 at 12.30pm.

Mixed yee sang, for a change

By CHOONG MEK ZHIN

mekzhin@thestar.com.my

TAI PING,
The Royale Chulan Kuala Lumpur,
6, Jalan Conlay, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2688 9688
Business hours: Daily, lunch (11am to 2.30pm);
dinner(6.30pm to 10.30pm).
Halal

THERE is no such thing as Chinese New Year speciality dishes at Tai Ping, The Royale Chulan Kuala Lumpur, because every dish is special in its own way.

“After more than 30 years of cooking, the experience I picked up along the way have been incorporated into each and every dish the team has come up with this year,” hotel executive Chinese chef Toni She Kam Cheong said.

He also said the restaurant was offering “mixed” yee sang on request.

Heralding good fortune: The red snapper is presented with its tail in its mouth to symbolise good fortune coming in.

“We have three types of yee sang this year — fruit, salmon and abalone. Upon request, we can actually do a combination of salmon with either fruit or abalone,” he said.

The restaurant is offering set menus for 10 people, priced at RM1,388++, RM1,588++ and RM1,888++, for lunch and dinner, until Feb 28.

“Each dish is carefully prepared and carries traditional good luck symbols. Take, for instance, the steamed red snapper. It is arranged so that its tail sticks out of its mouth, symbolising lots of good fortune coming in,” he said.

He added that the sauce used for steaming the fish took one month to perfect and was a combination of supreme soy sauce, rock sugar, coriander, ginger and chicken essence.

Timing is also everything in preparing the eye-pleasing dishes.

“The fish should not be steamed longer than 15 minutes or the sweetness would also drain out of the meat. On the other hand, the braised dishes have to be simmered for six hours to bring out the best taste of the ingredients in it,” he said.

For dessert, there is the four-hour slow-cooked chilled aloe vera with red date that will refresh the palate after the meal.

The restaurant caters for private events of any size.

Fruity yee sang for diners

By CHARLES FERNANDEZ
charlesf@thestar.com.my

CHENG HO COURT,
MINES WELLNESS HOTEL,
Jalan Dulang, Mines Resort City,
43300 Seri Kembangan
Tel:03-89436688 ext 1311

TOSSING yee sang is a tradition practised by the Chinese during the Lunar New Year but there is no argument even when the delicacy is just pure vegetable and fruit-based.

The important part is that it is practised in the hope the family attains peace and prosperity in the coming years.

The Cheng Ho Court at the Mines Wellness Hotel in Seri Kembangan is doing just that – celebrating the Lunar New Year with the tossing of yee sang that is purely fruit and vegetable- based.

Different offering: Yee Sang comprising vegetables and fruits

“It is just an experiment to gauge diners interest. I tried it at my previous workplace and it turned out quite well,” said Food and Beverage chef Chin Hock Seng.

Chin said there were more fruits than vegetable in the yee sang – containing shreds of mango, pomelo, honeydew, yam, strawberry, potato and tapioca.

“There are 18 items that make up this delicacy,’’

The Healthy Fruity Low sang is priced at RM43++ for a small portion and RM68++ for a large portion,’’ he added.

Diners can still opt for the traditional Low Sang Menu of Salmon and Snow Pear (RM48++ and RM78++), Salmon and Abalone (RM78++ and RM108++) and the pricier Abalone (RM88++ and RM128++).

The good news is that for the next visit, buy the yee sang for half the price.

However, the Lunar New Year is not just about yee sang as the Chinese are very particular and place much importance on all the dishes served during this auspicious time.

Hence, it is not surprising when hotels compete with one another with chefs cracking their heads to come out with the best and most innovative dishes that would hopefully pull in the diners.

Refreshing: Deep Fried Prawn with Salad Thai Style.

At the Cheng Ho Court, Chin is also going once step further to introduce the Chinese New Year Dim Sum. The tiny morsels, priced from RM6++, is just the perfect start to a bigger and hearty meal.

These steamed and deep-fried items are available as Steamed Shanghai Bun with Dried scallop, Thai Style Steamed Fish Bladder, Steamed Shrimp Dumpling with Abalone, Steamed Beancurd Skin Roll with Vegetable, Deep Fried Prawn Taste with Salted Egg and Mayonnaise, Deep Fried Crispy Prawn Ball and Deep Fried Shrimp and Fatt Choy Dumpling in Kataifi Paste.

There are many menus to choose from for the Chinese New Year promotion.

The CNY Set Menu available for lunch and dinner for a table of 10 is priced at RM688++ for a nine-course, and RM788++ and comes with a complimentary bottle of house wine while the RM888++ menu is complimented with a bottle of Chinese wine.

For the die-hard seafood lovers, there is a wide choice of abalone, dried seafood and Shark’s Fin menu priced from RM48++ to RM78++ per person. The Braised Assorted Dried Seafood Platter, baked Crystal Prawn with Cheese and Butter and the Deep Fried Prawn with Salad in Thai Style are available in three portions of small, medium and large while the Steamed Season Fish with Assam sauce is available at market price.

And while a list of vegetable and poultry dishes priced from RM23++ to RM66++ complete the menu, the Lunar New Year should always round up with a refreshing dessert of Deep Fried Nian Gao with Yam and Sweet Glutinous Dumpling with Ginger.

The promotion, which is available for lunch and dinner ends on Feb 28.

An intimate Coffee Ritual

Coffee Ritual may not look swanky but it is a haven for coffee gourmets.

By KW and Alexandra Wong

FEB 13 — Alex practically shoved the address down my throat. “Here.”
She had discovered it while waiting for her notebook to be reformatted at Digital Mall. Not wanting the usual fast foods, she had looked around and spotted the corner shop at the end of the road.

She did a pretty good sales pitch, oohing and aahing over voluptuous latte, scrumptious sweet crepe, refined gourmet coffees at “proletariat prices.” But she didn’t have to mention the pricing.

She had me at “gourmet coffee.”

My name is KW Wong, and I am a certified coffee-holic. Which was why I made a beeline for Coffee Ritual as soon as Saturday rolled around.

It didn’t take long to spot the cafe, though finding a space for my car took considerably longer. There is a reason Section 14 is also known as Parking Hell.

On the outside, it looked pretty modest. At the shop-front, a standee tried its best to tease potential patrons with pictures of some of the delights to be found within.

As I entered through the nondescript front door, I noted a fleet of coffee paraphernalia lined the racks by the front door. A porcelain-bodied coffee machine was mounted on one side of the magazine cabinet, while coffee-themed paintings hang on the walls.

After flipping through the menu, I decided to go with Alex’s recommendation — café latte, and the sweet crepe, which purportedly featured premium Haagen-Dazs and Berkeley’s ice-cream.

My latte arrived in a tall glass with a crown of creamy foam above a thick layer the colour of chocolate malt. I took a sip. The milk had been expertly steamed, its natural sweetness cushioning the palate from the coffee’s more aggressive, bitter aspects. If I were a cat, I would purr with approval.

The sweet crepe is sinfully good... you know you want to take a bite, right?

I took a bite of the sweet crepe. The still-warm parcel enfolded a stream of sweet custard, topped with a dollop of whipped cream and generous lashings of chocolate sauce. Crispy at the edges, the texture turned chewier as my teeth edged towards the swollen centre.

I quickly reported to base. “Verdict: coffee tastes like your tongue is in a bed of silken sheets, in a room that smells of the finest Arabica brew.”

Her reply: “I gather you approve?”
My coffee craving was temporarily sated, replaced by a new curiosity. I walked over to speak to a gangly bespectacled gentleman who was fiddling with a grinder — the boss I presumed — to find out more.

“Why Coffee Ritual?” I began with the obvious.

“Because the preparation of coffee to a ritual must be religiously followed for the perfect cup,” he smiled. Turns out he sourced and roasted the beans himself, and tries different brewing methods on occasion. “Artisan” is not a word to be tossed around lightly, but I couldn’t think of a more apt description for the owner.

Parking hell or no parking hell, I’ve become a regular, and developed a healthy partiality for the single origin gourmet coffees. For the uninitiated, these beverages are prepared with freshly ground beans using vacuum-powered siphon brewing, resulting in a liquid that has little to no residue.

The latte is perfect... "tastes like your tongue is in a bed of silken sheets..."

What would interest coffee connoisseurs though, is this: the assertive Sumatra Mandheling’s earthy, smoky notes are reminiscent of its source’s rich, volcanic soil. The smooth, subtly aromatic and refined Colombian Special is hugely popular; after drinking one straight, even casual drinkers can feel the change in a cup of Colombian Special after adding one, and then two sugars.

The bosses themselves drink single origin coffees neat and recommend that clients do the same. (Psst, rest easy, nobody will throw you out for coffee crimes.)

Sorry… I’ve gone on and on about the coffee, to the neglect of the packed menu that offers a decent selection of teas, as well as an extensive range of pastas, sandwiches, pies and salads as well as Asian favourites. Combine selected items to form a three-course value meal with starter, main dish and dessert. Hint: the nasi lemak is particularly popular.
As for me, I am just glad that we found this unexpected oasis.

For a little peace and quiet from the madding crowd, few things beat the tranquil sanctity of a private coffee ritual.

Coffee Ritual
35, Jalan 14/20, Section 14
46100 Petaling Jaya
Selangor
Tel +603 7956 1080
Opens Mon-Sat 10am-11pm Sun & Public Holidays 9am-10pm
www.coffeeritual.com
Pork-free

Tossing High With A Roar

TO greet the Year Of The Tiger, Jenny Fong and Ng Chee Kian have designed prosperity menus for a festive celebration, writes TAN BEE HONG. CHINESE New Year is not complete without a feast. Make that many feasts as not only the Chinese, but all the other races too join in the month of plenty. From tomorrow to Feb 21, chefs Jenny Fong and Ng Chee Kian of the Hotel Grand Continental Kuala Lumpur will be dishing up prosperity dishes for year-end dinners to reward employees for their hard work the previous year, to toast business associates for a co-operative year, back-to-work lunches to welcome a profitable year with the Tiger or even dinners to celebrate joy and a close working relationship. Then there are dinners to meet with relatives or simply because you like yee sang. Just like the colour red, fireworks and hong bao, yee sang is a must-have dish that no Chinese New Year meal is complete without. And there are five varieties (from RM28) to choose from, in two sizes to accommodate different appetites. For vegetarians, there's a fruity yee sang to sweeten up the year. Those who like raw fish will love the salmon yee sang and the combination of salmon and Japanese baby octopus. Jellyfish and Arctic surf clam yee sang offers a nice crunch from the jellyfish combined with the sweetness of the surf clams. For something more indulgent, get Chilean Abalone yee sang. There is a certain feeling of togetherness when you toss the yee sang high with shouts of "lou hei" and urging the deities to bestow greater profits, health and happiness. It's a great start to any meal. This refreshing salad with shredded carrots, radish, pomelo, pickles, nuts, sesame seeds, coriander leaves and crispy pastry chips, is dressed with a sweet, tangy plum sauce, five-spice powder, pepper and a dash of oil. The raw fish, clams or abalone are sliced into slivers and added just before tossing. Part of the fun (and a test of how lucky you are) is to see how many slices of fish you can get. Yee sang is part of three sets of Auspicious menus to ring in the Year Of The Tiger. At a sampling preview, the media has a taste of dishes from the various menus. Naturally, we start with salmon yee sang. The fresh vegetables are absolutely crisp and crunchy. The piquant plum sauce whet our appetites. We have braised shark's fin soup with crabmeat and fish maw, adding a dash of black vinegar to bring out its flavours better. There's plenty of crabmeat and shark's fin. The fish maw is shredded finely and you may not notice it until you take a bite and feel its crunchy contrast with the slippery strands of shark's fin. Boneless sesame chicken with Thai sauce is a spicy, zesty treat and best of all, you don't have to worry about the bones. The deboned chicken is battered and deepfried to a golden brown. The tangy Thai sauce is absolutely appetising and brings out well the taste of the juicy chicken. Customers love this dish and they find the Thai sauce very appetising, says Ng. Fong is a firm believer in pomfret being the choice fish for the festivities. At Grand Continental, the pomfret is thick and fleshy. It's so sweet that you don't need much seasoning. So all that's needed is some superior soya sauce with ginger, scallions and parsley. With the second menu, you get prawns in two styles on the same platter. There's steamed prawns dressed with cream sauce and fruity salad and prawns wokfried with honey and soya sauce. Mee sua (fine, white wheat noodles) braised with fish fillet, prawns, sliced shitake mushroom, carrots, cabbage and cuttlefish, is an unusual dish as most chefs would use fresh wantan noodles. Ng agrees. That's why we're offering it, to give customers something different. Mee sua is also associated with longevity and has an auspicious advantage over wantan noodles. Dessert is two types of pastry and double-boiled sea coconut with lotus seeds and ginseng root or sweetened pumpkin cream with sago.

Crafted For Year-end Celebrations

Steamed cod with a touch of soya sauce Dried oysters with mushrooms, fatt choy & broccoli

It's a buffet. It's a Chinese dinner. It's both. At the Tonka Bean Cafe, you get both a buffet and main dishes served at your table, writes TAN BEE HONG JUST for the pre-Chinese New Year season, Impiana Hotel is offering an a la minute Chinese menu in the Tonka Bean Cafe. The Prosperity Chinese Dinner, on till Feb 12 from 6.30pm to 10.30pm, includes appetisers and dessert from the usual buffet spread, while main courses will be served hot from the kitchen. The bright and cheerful Tonka Bean is located on the ground floor of the hotel. For the festive season, it's been decked out with bright red lanterns and pink cherry blossoms. There is also an ongoing yee sang (from RM72) promotion, with traditional toppings of salmon, tuna and Japanese octopus or more adventurous items like abalone, unagi with sea-grass, smoked duck breast with fresh fig and smoked tuna with baby abalone and avocado. The latter sounds wonderful. The smoked tuna is melt-in-the-mouth, with smokey flavours. "We do all the smoking here in the hotel kitchen, says executive chef Steven Seow. "This ensures freshness." The tuna tastes far better than the baby abalone but the slices of avocado add a pleasant taste and texture. The yee sang comes with a choice of two dressings -- classic and the cryptic-sounding Mummy's Son Hidden Talent. Naturally, we pick the latter. Wow, it's stunning. The combination of mint jelly, pesto and plum sauce with finely shredded lemongrass and kaffir lime is definitely a new take on yee sang. And a touch of finely chopped chili padi adds a hint of pedas to whet the appetite further. This dressing comes from Chinese chef Tang Yew Khee. "I want to give customers a refreshing new taste that's truly original. I'm sure everyone's tired of the usual plum sauce dressing." There are two Prosperity Chinese Dinner menus, priced at RM88 and RM128 per person (minimum three persons). The RM88 menu has four hot main dishes from the kitchen, including Steamed Silver Pomfret With King Soya Sauce, Stirfried Tiger Prawns with BBQ Sauce, Golden Roasted Chicken and Dried Oysters With Fatt Choy, Mushrooms And Broccoli. We are at a sampling of the RM128 menu. After the yee sang, we sip steaming sharks' fin soup with crabmeat, fatt choy and baby abalone. Instead of the usual chunky pieces, the crabmeat is in fine threads. The soup's so well done that I'm tipping the bowl to drain the last spoonful when I remember that I haven't added the usual dash of black vinegar. For fish, we have cod fillet steamed with soya sauce. The cod is fresh and sweet. A simple dish that never fails to satisfy. Tang's tiger prawns are stirfried with Chinese BBQ sauce. Use your fingers or ask for a fork and knife. The clinging sauce works its magic in bringing out the best side of the fresh, crunchy prawns. Tender slices of wagyu beef are wokfried with black pepper and julienned vegetables like onions and capsicum. Those who don't take beef can ask for chicken instead. Tang falls back on tradition with his next dish of dried oysters and mushrooms with fatt choy (black moss) and broccoli. These are braised with oyster sauce. Noodles are a must in any Chinese New Year repast. Tang has opted for fresh wantan noodles, over which he ladles egg sauce with grass prawns, ginger and spring onions. The prawns are conveniently sliced lengthwise so you can get at the flesh with no problems. Ask for pickled green chili. For New Year's Eve, the buffet will have 90 per cent Chinese dishes, says Seow. The Emperor's Reunion Dinner (RM108) includes items like herbal black chicken soup, braised sea cucumber with dried oyster, fatt choy and mushrooms, baby abalone loh hon cai (festive vegetarian dish), wokfried kong po eel (fried with dried chili) and wokfried venison with Mongolian sauce. For the first two days of New year, the buffet highlight for lunch is dim sum and for dinner, it's Oriental Valentine (RM88) with braised old cucumber soup with seafood and red dates, crispy seabass in Mongolian sauce, gulai prawns with carambola and chili, chicken golek and red bean tiramisu. Pictures by KHOO SU TING

Burmese Twelve Varieties Soup Recipe

Ingredients :
125 g (4 oz) 2 tablespoons 2 2 cloves 6 slices 1 tablespoon 1 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 1 sprig 2 2	Chicken, duck or pork meat Oil Onions, sliced Garlic, sliced Boiled pork liver Soy sauce Small choko Bean sprouts Shredded cabbage Shredded cauliflower Sliced green beans Dried mushrooms, soaked Dried wood fungus, soaked Tender celery leaves Spring onions Eggs Salt to taste Pepper to taste
Method : Slice poultry or pork meat thinly. Heat oil in wok and fry onions and garlic. Add sliced meat and pork liver. Stir well. Add soy sauce. Cover and cook gently for 5 minutes. Add all the vegetables and again cook briefly with lid on. When vegetables are slightly wilted, transfer contents into a large saucepan. Add 4 cups water and bring to boil rapidly. Just before serving, add unbeaten eggs to the rapidly boiling soup and stir. Add salt and pepper to taste just before serving.

Burmese Soup with Cellophane Noodles Recipe

Ingredients :
10 cm bunch 5 cups 1 2 cloves 6 1 tablespoon 125 g (4oz) 1	Cellophane noodles Chicken or pork bone stock Onion, finely sliced Garlic, finely sliced Button mushrooms, sliced Light soy sauce Fresh shrimps or prawns Zucchini, finely sliced in discs Salt and pepper to taste
Method : Soak the noodles in hot water and when softened, cut into short lengths. Bring stock to the boil. Add onion and garlic. Add the drained noodles and cook until they are swollen and soft. Add the mushrooms, soy sauce, shrimps and zucchini. Cook just until shrimps are done. Taste and add slat and pepper as required. Serve immediately and while hot.

Burmese Shrimp Fried in Batter Recipe

Ingredients :
500 g 1/2 cup 1/2 cup 1 teaspoon 1 clove 1/2 teaspoon 1/4 teaspoon 1/2 cup	Small shrimp Chick pea flour Self-raising flour Salt Garlic, crushed Finely grated fresh ginger Ground turmeric Water Oil for deep frying
Method : Take head off the shrimps. There is no need to shell or de-vein them as they are as small as they should be. Mix remaining ingredients together to form a dipping batter. Stir in the shrimps, then put small spoonfuls into the hot oil and fry until golden brown and crisp. Fry only a few spoonfuls at a time and prevent them from sticking to each other by spooning oil over them as each one is added to the oil. Drain on absorbent paper and serve warm.

Burmese Fried Shrimp Recipe

Ingredients :
16 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon 2 tablespoons 2 tablespoons	Large shrimps, peeled (prawns) Salt Ground turmeric Chili powder Sesame oil Peanut oil Thin bamboo skewers
Method : Dust the shrimps with mixed salt, turmeric and chili powder. Bend shrimps into a half circle and thread on skewer through top and tail to keep this shape. Put four shrimps on each skewer. Shallow fry skewered shrimps until golden. Serve immediately.

Burmese Choko Soup Recipe

Ingredients :
2 1 tablespoon 1 2 cloves 1 tablespoon 1/2 teaspoon 1/4 teaspoon 4-6 cups	Chokos Oil Large onion, sliced lengthways Garlic, sliced lengthways Dried shrimps Dried shrimp paste Ground turmeric Water
Method : Peel the chokos, halve them lengthways and cut into thin slices. Heat oil in a saucepan and add onion, garlic, chokos, dried shrimps, shrimp paste and turmeric. Toss together over medium heat for a few minutes. Then cover and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes. Add water and allow to simmer for about another 10 minutes. Add salt if necessary. Serve hot with rice and curries.