Dragons and tigers in a broth?

The crabs, prawns, squid and mussels in the Long Hu Hui broth... no dragons and tigers but oh so delicious.

By Eu Hooi Khaw

DEC 19 — This part of SS2 in Petaling Jaya, on the same side of Kayu, has 17 restaurants, two-thirds of which have opened up only recently. I’m glad that the usually dark road is brightening up. One of the newest along the SS2/10 road is Restoran Fei Yao Long Hu Hui.

What’s special about this restaurant with the long name is the Long Hu Hui (now you know why), which translates into “dragon and tiger cooked in a broth.”

The pork belly in har cheong sauce is very popular here.

It’s seafood stock that has mui hiong salted fish in it, star anise, dried chillies and a little evaporated milk to finish. Into it goes prawns, squid, crab and mussels.

The claypot of soup is put over the portable stove on the table, and it simmers away as you help yourself to the seafood and the soup with its deep, complex flavours. It’s like a steamboat, and a plate of beehoon and Romaine lettuce are served with it.

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Lovely tender ribs bathed in salted egg sauce.

Ladle the soup over the rice noodles, add the lettuce and together they taste wonderful. The delicious salted fish aroma and flavour come through; the seafood stock is naturally sweet and hot with chilli. It’s heaps better than the usual fishhead noodles.

The crabs, prawns and squid have the same flavours clinging to them, and we took time eating the shellfish.

There’s also the more ”ching” Seafood Qun Ying Hui, which has crabs, prawns, clams, squid and pork boiled in clear seafood broth and served with fresh vegetables and egg fried rice. I may go back just for this.

Fei Yao (which by the way is the name of the chef) is also known for its Braised Prawns in Claypot, Salted Egg Pork Ribs, Red Tilapia, Nyonya style, Claypot Har Cheong Pork Belly as well as the Deepfried Kurau in Lotus Leaf.

Braised prawns in a claypot is a must-order... really exceptional.

The braised tiger prawns in the claypot were smooth, springy and excellent with a dip of soya sauce, finely chopped chilli, garlic, ginger and spring onion. We couldn’t stop eating these sweet, fresh prawns.

There was an appetising aroma as from the deepfried fish on the lotus leaf which tastes better than it looks. A hot and sour sauce of roasted belacan, chilli, onions and asam had been poured over the fish which had lovely crispy bits.

The Salted Egg Pork Ribs were really good: the meat tore off from the bone easily and an almost liquid, creamy salted egg yolk sauce clung to the deepfried pork ribs. There was more oomph from ciii padi and deepfried curry leaves.

Against all that we had, the Nyonya Tilapia tasted almost ordinary. But I can say that if you like red tilapia, this one is highly recommended. The fish is bathed in avery fragrant, mildly hot curry that has the sweet, sour and hot notes perfectly balanced. It’s generous with bunga kantan, ground serai, turmeric and onions.

The kurau in lotus leaf may not look like much but it is delicious.

On an another occasion, we tried the Claypot Har Cheong Pork Belly, and the Claypot Taiwan Cabbage. The first is very Hong Kong style, with shrimp paste. The second is like our chai choy (vegetarian), except that it’s cooked with fu yee, not the red lam yee that is usually used.

Braised Yee Meen and Sing Chow Mai (Singapore fried rice noodles) are noodle dishes you can order here, among the items on a rather extensive menu.

The food is reasonably priced. For instance, the Long Hu Hui that has crabs, prawns and mussels in it, together with noodles and lettuce costs RM58 (2-3 people), and RM88 (4-6 people).

Restoran Fei Yao Long Hu Hui is located at 14, Jalan SS2/10, 47300 Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-7877 0933. It is closed on Thursday when there’s a night market.