Going Nuts Over Seafood

Forget random seafood delights outside Selangor. PHILIP LIM points the way to an unpretentious altar of gastronomical delights.

WHENEVER the word "seafood" comes to mind, the names of a number of places pop up -- Kuala Selangor, Pasir Penambang, Manjalara (near Bandar Sri Damansara), Sungai Besar and even Morib.

However, there are a handful of so-called hideaways that are quietly thriving under the shadow of those noteworthy seafood places. One of the more placid ones is the Coconut Flower Seafood Restaurant.

While some of us are scrambling around during weekends to make "great culinary discoveries", some "selfish people" have been quietly enjoying themselves in the confines of the Coconut Flower.

The establishment's display board provides pictorial evidence of its distinction among foodies. There are recognisable faces of local and foreign celebrities, including Malaysian politicians.

While we were feasting our eyes elsewhere, some film stars from south of our border had also been getting a taste of this Coconut Flower.

The restaurant is hidden in restful Kampung Telok Gong, somewhere on the fringes of Port Klang. If you are a first timer, drive along the road to Banting and look out for the road sign that points to Pandamaran.

Unless you are extremely near-sighted, you should be able to spot a subsequent road sign that indicates the direction to Telok Gong. For newbies, it is important to note that the road leading to Coconut Flower looks like a dirt road in the boondocks. In fact, it is a light industrial area. The narrow winding road, subdued in appearance, gives the impression that you have taken a wrong turn.

However, after about 1 1/2 kms, the Coconut Flower Seafood Restaurant sign peeks at you from the left side of the road.

From the outside, Coconut Flower looks restrained or downright plain. But looks are deceiving. Once you step across its portal, partly covered by coconut fronds, you will be pleasantly surprised by the tasteful decor of its interior.

There are numerous attap roofs over single dining tables. The rotating fan under the thatched roof wards off the heat and humidity on our perpetual summer days. The lush greenery, consisting garden plants, beautiful flowers and strategically placed pergolas, add to the pervading soothing and tranquil atmosphere.

For such a low-keyed spot in the middle of a sleepy village, the number of tables can only be described as astounding. There must easily be at least 70 tables or more. An adjoining building seems to serve as a venue for large gatherings, or perhaps wedding parties.

There are over 110 dishes in the menu. If you aren't sure what to order or what these dishes look like, take a walk to the notice-board near the cashier's counter.

On display are pictures of many mouth-watering dishes that will impress even the most seasoned diners. All you have to do is to point the ones you want to the patient waitress.

On my second visit to Coconut Flower, common sense helps me in listing down six preferred dishes. It saves time and cuts short the waiting period.

Service is amazingly efficient and the waiters and waitresses will put to shame most workers at five-star dining establishments. They are fast and attentive.

It is well known that Coconut Flower is a very busy place after 7pm. From then on, service may slow to a crawl. So if you are a VIP (Very Impatient Person), you may want to go during lunch time on weekdays. Take a day off, or think of something creative to tell your immediate supervisor so that you can satisfy your curiosity.

The tilapia fish (fei chow yue), fried Thai-style, is unforgettable. It tastes so good with the right amount of sauce and condiments that it makes you forget about everybody and everything momentarily.

The mushroom-seaweed soup is also another attention grabber. This particular dish is best savoured piping hot from the wok. The freshness of the soup will jump-start your tummy for the other dishes.

It is all right to feel like you may have to visit Coconut Flower again soon because most of its diners are regulars anyway. From the length of the restaurant menu, it is only sensible to try a few dishes at a time.

Don't overdo it. Any connoisseur will tell you that anything excessive only reveals that you are just a common glutton.

To help you digest the generous helpings on the table, you may want to order a pot of Iron Lady (Ti Guan Yin) tea. For the benefit of the non-Chinese, that's a popular variety of Chinese tea.

You may order fruit juices, of course but Chinese tea usually works wonders for quick digestion and helps to alleviate the burden of feeling full.

After we are done with the meal, the bill brings another smile to our faces. It is just a little more than RM70 for six dishes and all the other extras. The restaurant throws in free slices of watermelon. Great food, affordable prices and near perfect ambience. We just have to revisit the place. Just in case, you want to treat your family or friends to a hearty meal this weekend, Coconut Flower Seafood Restaurant is in 702, Jalan Udang Galah, Kampung Telok Gong, Port Klang. For GPS owners, the co-ordinates are N2 57.712 E101 23.855.